Sardinia is one of the best climbing destinations in the entire Mediterranean basin. Sport climbing is one of the many activities for an active holiday and offers an interesting alternative for those who prefer the mountains beyond the splendid sea.
In the Lotzorai area, climbs are always on excellent granite rock, and thanks to the different exposures, climbing is possible year-round. The town is also an extremely strategic and convenient location for accessing the crags of Baunei, Urzulei, Jerzu, and Ulassai.
It is a small granite outcrop, with beautiful, almost vertical rock and plenty of holds, which was bolted with beginners in mind. Launched by the enthusiasm of the local Luca Fava, with Riky Felderer and Cristian Murgia, it was bolted in 2018 in the Lotzorai area, in the area called “Bruncu su Cabriolu” (Cima del daino)
The bolts are closely spaced, and the belays require no “maneuvering” thanks to the use of Raumer “chiper” belays. All bolts are 316L stainless steel, including the belays.
The crag is open year-round, especially in the late afternoon in summer (it gets into the shade around 3:00 AM), and is almost always pleasantly breezy, even on extremely hot days.
This crag was bolted with the voluntary contributions of a dozen enthusiasts and businesses in the town of Lotzorai.
From the town of Lotzorai, take the SP 56 towards Talana, turn right 70 meters before the 3rd kilometer, opposite the Domus de Janas. Continue for 50 meters and park in the open space between the eucalyptus trees, taking care not to block access, given the small parking lot.
Follow the fence to the right until you reach a rudimentary gate, pass through it and reach the cliff (always close it).
The two cliffs of Lucertole al Sole and Mutanda are located on two sides of the same granite outcrop on the plain between Lotzorai and Tancau. e due falesie di Lucertole al Sole e Mutanda insistono su due versanti della stessa emergenza granitica sulla piana tra Lotzorai e Tancau.
The Mutanda sector is intended for experienced climbers who appreciate short, overhanging routes. Its exposure makes it climbable almost year-round.
Coming from the south, take the SS125 turnoff for Santa Maria Navarrese. Just before the town of Tancau, turn left onto Via Gennargentu, keep left and park on the edge of the dirt road.
Follow a fence to the base of the climb (cairns), climb to the left, and then continue right (always looking upstream) toward the tafonata rock face, where the Mutanda sector is located, along a steep path among boulders and plants. For the Lucertole al sole sector, continue to the saddle, then descend, keeping slightly to the left, along a short but not too obvious trail until you reach the base of the cliff (15 minutes from the car).
The Mutanda sector is intended for experienced climbers who appreciate short, overhanging routes. Its exposure makes it climbable almost year-round.
Unlike Mutanda, Lucertole al sole is a southwest-facing granite shield, better suited to cooler winter or mid-season days. Both sectors, by Giorgio Pusceddu and Mariano Zurru, are excellently bolted with bolts and resin bolts.
Coming from the south, take the SS125 turnoff for Santa Maria Navarrese. Just before the town of Tancau, turn left onto Via Gennargentu, keep left and park on the edge of the dirt road.
Follow a fence to the base of the climb (cairns), ascend to the left, then continue right (always looking uphill) toward the tafonata rock face, where the Mutanda sector is located, along a steep path between boulders and plants. For the Lucertole al sole sector, continue until you reach the saddle, then descend, keeping slightly to the left, along a short but not overly obvious trail until you reach the base of the cliff (15 minutes from the car).
